Messy yet perfect city—Biratnagar

Biratnagar –the industrial hub of Nepal— is a fast-paced city. At first glance, I thought I would never like this place.  Bumpy roads, dusty atmosphere and polluted air— an Infrastructural mess—is how I described Biratnagar initially. But more I lived here, more I learned about the city and its people, more my dislikes changed into likes. Today, it won’t be wrong to say that unexpectedly I fallen in love with this messy yet perfect city.

unexpectedly I am falling in love with this messy yet perfect city.

Answering a question about what’s the best thing about the city, I listed places, things and people that set Biratnagar apart from rest of the country.

I love the colorful, noisy and spectacular view of Gudri Bazaar where vendors spread their jute bags in uneven rows on the ground leaving just enough space for people to walk through. Its inspiring to see how these vendors labor day and night— whether its steaming hot or freezing cold— in the urge to earn better living.   

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

My favorite spot, Traffic Chowk, Biratnagar 

From savouring roasted peanuts with a hot cup of tea to warming hands sitting beside a bonfire, Biratnagar is an absolute delight in winter season.  And it is winter that introduced me to Vakka—a steamed rice cake which is garnished with green chili chutney. The chutney makes all the difference as it give you a kick of heat and flavor. Although it sounds rather simple, and it is, it’s one of greatest tasting winter street food you’ll likely to eat in Biratnagar. And also, don’t miss on the sweet vakka with jaggery filling.

Vakka with jiggery filling (Rs 20) at Traffic Chowk

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Jhalmuri (Rs 20) at Main Road, Biratnagar

Another Biratnagar street food you will commonly find throughout the city, especially alongside the busy roads like Traffic Chowk and Main Road is chatpatey & pani puri/dahi puri. We do not need a reason to hang out at the roadside for these crunchy snacks that’s tangy, spicy, and sweet from all the ingredients with a wonderful balance of flavor.  

Lip smacking aalu chat at Mahendra Chowk, Biratnagar

Dahi Puri (Rs 40) at Mahendra Chowk, Biratnagar

It’s the type of street food that once you start eating it, you can’t stop—we just can’t resist the urge of digging into these not-so healthy, yet so-scrumptious roadside delights.

                                That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Biratnagar is probably one of the best cities in Nepal to experience the rickshaw and safari ride. Rickshaw is slow compared to safari yet both the rides give you a touch of roller coasting feeling on the bumpy roads of Biratnagar.

Safari ride, Mahendra Chowk, Biratnagar

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Drinking cups of hot chiya/coffee on the side of the street is one of the joys of visiting Biratnagar. Chiya is not just a cup of tea, but it’s a hot and soothing brew that offers a time to take a rest from the chaotic streets of the city, to slowly sip and enjoy. Unlike Kathmandu, in Biratnagar we can see chiya/coffee wala on most of the stree— carrying small kettle and seling chiya/coffee in little paper cups. 

Coffee (Rs. 20) at Main Road, Biratnagar

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Biratnagar in flood

And lastly, I love Biratnagar for the courageous soul that it carry. Last year when it rained here, I wondered if the city will come to a stop. It literally was like the hell broke down. I saw roads, airport and houses being over flown by rainwater. Then when I went out, I saw vendors were still selling vegetables and people were still rushing to offices. People somehow manage to live here, irrespective of anything. The best part is they do it with a smile.

That is why I loved Biratnagar.





I Heart This City: Shraddha's Biratnagar 

A face behind those drooling Jhalmuri

That smile though, Gudri Bazaar, Biratnagar

Swag, Ncell Mela, Biratnagar

Simple yet elegant women of  Biratnagar

Every house tells your a story, Teenpaini, Biratnagar

Uninvited guest

My affair with sunsets, Gopal Fun Park, Biratnagar

I realize Biratnagar is simple, mundane and messy yet perfect.

That is why I loved Biratnagar.





Text & Photos By: Shraddha Thapa

The Golden Temple—a magical experience

YES I made it! This year I actually visited The Golden Temple in Amritsar, Punjab, India. Not on purpose but there seems to be some connection between The Golden Temple, mind blowing Punjabi food and me. Visiting the Golden Temple— also known as Sri Harmandir Sahib is the holiest Gurdwara of the Sikh religion— was without a doubt the highlight of my trip to Punjab. Though you can get a flight from Delhi to Amritsar, I choose to take a bus from Delhi bus stand to the state of Punjab where the city of Amritsar lies.

I arrived in Amritsar in the mid night after an exhausting 5-6 hours of bus ride from Delhi. Being very worn out I could do nothing but take a hot shower, sneak into my cozy bed and fall asleep. The next morning I woke up with an immense excitement for my first encounter with the Golden Temple.

I visited the Golden Temple in the afternoon. The Golden 

Temple is open to everyone— no discrimination is allowed on the basis of caste, gender, statue—as the Sikh strongly believe in the principles of brotherhood and universal equality.

Hidden in the middle of four huge white marble walls, you cannot actually see the Golden Temple until you pass through one of the four gates. As per the rule, I left my shoes at a booth, washed my hands at the taps provided then I covered my head and proceeded to walk through a shallow pool of water that washed my feet. My bare feet walked over a smooth marble floor and as I walked though a beautifully carved archway, down a few steps, the mesmerizing sight of the Golden Temple absolutely blew me away.

The entire top of the temple is made of pure gold and is surrounded by a man-made lake where devotees come to offer prayers and take a dip in this holy lake. The lake is also a home to many exotic fish. Because of the overwhelming beauty that you get to see, even the long wait in the queue to get inside the Golden Temple feels totally worthy.

The cloudless blue sky, the white marble walkway and the way the sun shimmers off the Golden Temple that dazzle in the water fascinated me so much that I actually stayed there for the entire evening. I spent hours sitting by the lake admiring the beautiful Golden Temple in front. And as the sun sets, the Golden Temple submersed in beautiful yellow lights and you experience the most glorious moment of your life. You can even spend the entire night at the Golden Temple, if you wish to.

As the sun sets, the Golden Temple submersed in beautiful yellow lights and you experience the most glorious moment of your life.

From few fellow devotees I came to know about the Langar—the free kitchen—that serves meal to over 50,000 meals a day to everyone regardless of religion, caste or class. So, I decided to eat my dinner in Langar. As I entered the langar building I was handed a clean metal plate, a spoon, and a bowl. Then I joined hundred other people in a large room where I sat on the floor. 

The Langar—the free kitchen—that serves meal to over 50,000 meals a day to everyone regardless of religion, caste or class

Soon after sitting, men passes by with different foods, asking if I would like my plate be filled. The langar meal was a simple yet tasty consisting of dal, rice and chapati. It was extremely humbling experience to be sitting cross legged with hundreds of other people, enjoying a meal together, knowing it was lovingly made by hundreds of volunteers. 

Though Amritsar is filled with “Punjabi Dhabas” that serves authentic Punjabi food, but if you are in the Golden Temple, I would recommend you to try the meals in Langar. 

The langar meal was a simple yet tasty consisting of dal, rice and chapati.

After my meal, I continued to walk around the Golden Temple for sometime. Despite the crowd I could still feel the calmness in its art, music and atmosphere. Overall, being in the Golden Temple was such a beautiful and magical experience.

TEXT & PHOTOS BY: SHRADDHA THAPA