wanderessme

Messy yet perfect city—Biratnagar

Biratnagar –the industrial hub of Nepal— is a fast-paced city. At first glance, I thought I would never like this place. Bumpy roads, dusty atmosphere and polluted air— an Infrastructural mess—is how I described Biratnagar initially. But more I lived here, more I learned about the city and its people, more my dislikes changed into likes. Today, it won’t be wrong to say that unexpectedly I fallen in love with this messy yet perfect city.

unexpectedly I am falling in love with this messy yet perfect city.

Answering a question about what’s the best thing about the city, I listed places, things and people that set Biratnagar apart from rest of the country.

I love the colorful, noisy and spectacular view of Gudri Bazaar where vendors spread their jute bags in uneven rows on the ground leaving just enough space for people to walk through. Its inspiring to see how these vendors labor day and night— whether its steaming hot or freezing cold— in the urge to earn better living.

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

My favorite spot, Traffic Chowk, Biratnagar

From savouring roasted peanuts with a hot cup of tea to warming hands sitting beside a bonfire, Biratnagar is an absolute delight in winter season. And it is winter that introduced me to Vakka—a steamed rice cake which is garnished with green chili chutney. The chutney makes all the difference as it give you a kick of heat and flavor. Although it sounds rather simple, and it is, it’s one of greatest tasting winter street food you’ll likely to eat in Biratnagar. And also, don’t miss on the sweet vakka with jaggery filling.

Vakka with jiggery filling (Rs 20) at Traffic Chowk

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Jhalmuri (Rs 20) at Main Road, Biratnagar

Another Biratnagar street food you will commonly find throughout the city, especially alongside the busy roads like Traffic Chowk and Main Road is chatpatey & pani puri/dahi puri. We do not need a reason to hang out at the roadside for these crunchy snacks that’s tangy, spicy, and sweet from all the ingredients with a wonderful balance of flavor.

Lip smacking aalu chat at Mahendra Chowk, Biratnagar

Dahi Puri (Rs 40) at Mahendra Chowk, Biratnagar

It’s the type of street food that once you start eating it, you can’t stop—we just can’t resist the urge of digging into these not-so healthy, yet so-scrumptious roadside delights.

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Biratnagar is probably one of the best cities in Nepal to experience the rickshaw and safari ride. Rickshaw is slow compared to safari yet both the rides give you a touch of roller coasting feeling on the bumpy roads of Biratnagar.

Safari ride, Mahendra Chowk, Biratnagar

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Drinking cups of hot chiya/coffee on the side of the street is one of the joys of visiting Biratnagar. Chiya is not just a cup of tea, but it’s a hot and soothing brew that offers a time to take a rest from the chaotic streets of the city, to slowly sip and enjoy. Unlike Kathmandu, in Biratnagar we can see chiya/coffee wala on most of the stree— carrying small kettle and seling chiya/coffee in little paper cups.

Coffee (Rs. 20) at Main Road, Biratnagar

That is why I loved Biratnagar.

Biratnagar in flood

And lastly, I love Biratnagar for the courageous soul that it carry. Last year when it rained here, I wondered if the city will come to a stop. It literally was like the hell broke down. I saw roads, airport and houses being over flown by rainwater. Then when I went out, I saw vendors were still selling vegetables and people were still rushing to offices. People somehow manage to live here, irrespective of anything. The best part is they do it with a smile.